A brief guide to Ventimiglia and the Far West (of Liguria)

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Ventimiglia old town
(Ventimiglia Alta)

Border town serving mainly as a cheap drink and pasta repository for the French, popular with the Germans and Dutch and Italian families from Turin and Lombardy, with a bustling weekly street market. In spite of its position 10 minutes from Menton and 20 from Monaco, on a beautiful coastline with arguably the best climate in Europe, poor town-planning, lack of vision and mis-management of funds have seen the town fail to develop its tourist potential. The removal of borders and the introduction of the Euro left the frontier town with no real role (tourism doesn't seem to have occurred) and it now gets by with the highest concentration of liquor stores in Italy, and with a weekly street market. Divided into the crumbling medieval old town ('Ventimiglia Alta'') on a steep hill and a less appealing modern new town across the River Roya it's not perhaps a place to holiday at length, unless on a tight budget, though not a bad base for day trips to the far busier and more expensive Cote d'Azur and Monaco, and Sanremo 10 minutes to the East.

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River Roya divides Ventimiglia old and new

Ventimiglia Modern town: Mainly postwar, busy, lots of liquor stores (for the cross-border market), clothes shops and big daily fruit n veg market (sourced by the top Monaco eateries, apparently)- nice palm park and a large street market every Friday (see below). Fine views along the coast to Monaco and beyond Cap d'Antibes, and to the mountains up the Roya Valley. The train station is in the modern centre.

Ventimiglia Old Town (Ventimiglia Alta): Well worth exploring the twisting, crumbling medieval alleys and dark streets. Falling apart but alive, unlike sanitised Menton, Monaco Ville and tourist-choked Nice (though all well worth a trip). Don't miss the higher parts around the walls with the views across to Cap Martin and Monaco and the mountains. Holy Grail probably hidden in San Michele (X - XII Century), some say - (and it is always locked). It once belonged to the Benedictine Monks of The Isle of Lerin (just off Antibes) who had connections to Seborga, of Templar fame. The Cathedral (Duomo) has crypt dating from the VII Century and said to be built on the site of a pagan temple from the inscription inside to Juno (Hera), wife of Jupiter (Zeus).

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Ventimiglia modern town with Bordighera in the distance

VENTIMIGLIA HISTORY

Prehistoric remains found at Balzi Rossi on the French border. Local Intermeli tribe lived to the East of the modern town on the River Nervia. Conquered by the Romans who built baths and amphitheatre on the same site (museum). Abandoned in 7th century population moved to the hill over the River Roya for protection from the raiding barbarians and built the Medieval town (Ventimiglia Alta). Became part of the Republic of Genova after a siege (from where Foscolo's Jacopo Ortis later sat) in 1670. Modern town began start of 19th century.

Name comes from the high position above the Nervia - Altura - and the Ligurian tribe that settled there - Intermeli. Later corrupted by the Romans to Albintimilium, hence to Ventimiglia. So nothing to do with 20 miles then.

ARRIVAL

The train station is in the centre of town with a fairly regular service to most places you'd want to see along the coast in both directions. Left luggage available. Tourist Office: via Roma - come out of the station to main road, turn left at traffic lights, 2 mins on your left. Try to avoid driving at the rush-hours of 11 - 13 and 17 - 19 and altogether on Fridays.

French train timetable - France to Ventimiglia and vice-versa
Italian train timetable - Ventimiglia to rest of Italy
Pick up the free timetable (04 Mandelieu - Ventimiglia) booklet at the station.

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Le Calandre Beach near Latte

VENTIMIGLIA HOTELS

The Seagull is friendly and has its own bit of beach on the East side of the Roya. Right next door to the Seagull is the less friendly Hotel Sole Mare with the restaurant Pasta and Basta below. The XX Settembre, Via Roma 16 (tel 0184 351 222), is at the low end. With a car and bigger credit you might consider La Riserva, excellent views from a hill over town. Other options - scout about a bit on the West side of town by the sea. Cheaper options in centre with no views or walk along the seafront heading West for 10-15 mins. There is a campsite (ask for the campeggio) out towards what appears to be a shanty town and the motorway link road - very dry, dusty, more like a car park (15 mins walk from the station). A second campsite lies hidden off the beach at Camporosso Mare - grab a bus towards Bordighera and ask where to get off.

VENTIMIGLIA RESTAURANTS

A revolutionary smoking ban in public places was introduced in 2005 and includes bars and restaurants.
On the East side of the river on the seafront pretty much all the same - pay slightly more for the better view. Tourist menus - passable for lunch - around 13 Euros each - they'll hit you on the wine. Best view from the restaurant with the large deck on the beach by the river mouth. On the West side of the river, over the blue footbridge, restaurants are on the whole more expensive and offer better fare. Pasta e Basta is a hotel restaurant open only in the evenings from 7pm. Largely French crowd, indoors, hot, has a sulky young maitre d' but offers large portions of inventive, though pricey, pasta - best to book. Best bet on the seafront is Stella Marina - friendly, good food - 30/40 Euros a head with good wine - try the pinot nero. In the old town the pizzeria just outside Porta Nizza (the upper town gate) is both good and very cheap - meals around 15 Euros. The curiously named Ritrovo dei Ciclisti e Artisti (Cyclists' and Artists' Meeting Place - via Genova, 5 mins east of station) offers good value pasta in a pleasant vaulted ceiling basement.

VENTIMIGLIA NIGHTLIFE, FESTIVALS

Not quite the hustle and bustle found over the French border. Families walking after dinner along the seafront, mainly Italians with some German and Dutch. Ice cream, old man with guitar, early to bed. Nearest night out Monaco - 20 mins by train, but last train back is 11.30. Alternatively, try Menton - in the winter a retirement town in the summer very busy. Battle of the Flowers (August) is an annual parade of floats covered in flowers. Medieval August is a series of parades and flag-waving in costume. Summer Sagra del Raviolo street parties with wine and pasta and music in the old town: July and around 15 Aug. Throughout the summer in the large space over the beach on the east side of the river concerts of popular music and entertainment.

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Ventimiglia Market, every Friday

VENTIMIGLIA MARKET

Every Friday along seafront, you can't miss it, just follow the crowds. Lots of counterfeit bags and watches mainly but not exclusively from the African sellers. Starts around 8/9 ends around 3/4. Best bet to avoid crowds is to get there as soon as it opens, shop, watch the police pretend to chase the African sellers, then have lunch on the sea. Avoid coming by car if possible and get the train (first class may get a seat). 5 mins walk from station. DON'T leave your car on Thursday evening where the market takes place - it'll be towed. Also check before leaving your car anywhere for a few days - they only give 24 hours warning before setting up an event of some sort. Always worth haggling ("mi fa lo sconto?") at the stalls. Divide by at least 3 with everyone else.

In June 2005 the authorities caught and fined several tourists buying fake goods - hitting them with a fine of 10,000 Euros (though reduced to 3,333 Euros if paid within a month). Of course, if they were serious about stopping counterfeit goods they could stamp it out in a single market day - and possibly see the rapid demise of the market. As it is, a few cases in the media shows something is being done and allows the sellers to continue on their favourite mid-week patches - directly opposite the police station and town hall! In July 2005 a bill was going through parliament to reduce the fines to 200 Euros.

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Le Calandre Beach, Feb 2005

VENTIMIGLIA BEACHES

Mainly pebbles all along seafront, both sides of river.
Le Calandre Beach: Sandy beach round headland on west side of river - keep walking along the seafront then pick up the trail, head towards the ruin and keep going. Nice 10 minute walk. Laidback beach with bar with dogs Rocky (pic below) and Rolly. Can get very busy, popular with surfers and when surf's up beach can almost disappear under water. Around 7pm have the place to yourself - swim/bodysurf and enjoy sunset aperitif. With a car try Balzi Rossi just before the French border (on the coast road) turn left and park. Follow the trail round to rock bathing, or the beach in the bay further round.

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Waiting for Master

SPORT

Skiing: Limone 45 mins' drive from Ventimiglia. Check conditions on the excellent website. Not quite Courmayeur, Sestriere or the Dolomites but much closer. Avoid weekends and Wednesdays (French school day off). Season from around Dec to April.
Tennis: The Tennis club (6 clay courts) is very well hidden in a sort of shanty town - a dusty 15 mins walk from the centre - ask for directions, or grab a taxi from the station. €12/hour. Always deserted, no need to book just turn up and startle the moody owner by asking for - of all things and in such a place - a tennis court.
Surfing: Calandre beach (see above) when the surf's up.
Walks: Good walking country. Grab a hiker's map from the bookshop in via Roma. For a civilised walk around Cap Martin, France take train towards France get off at Carnoles (third stop - not all trains stop here), walk around Cap and pick up train back from Roquebrune Cap Martin. For more serious walking try the Roya Valley.

SHOPS

Lots. Most open around 9 and close 19.30 - often close for lunch from 12.30 - 15.30.
Supermarkets: In town: Standa via Roma open all day incl. Suns: Discount via Roma open all day closed Sun.
Out of town: Coop - towards the motorway, near UPIM (an Italian-style Woolworths). Conad - on coast road to Menton at Latte. Nearest big supermarket is in Menton (10 mins) near the motorway exit.
Sportshops: Hop on the train to Decathlon, Monaco.
Good art shops at river end of via Roma.
DIY and electrical appliances drive out to Centro Esse, also open from 4pm on Sundays. Drive up Nervia valley towards Dolceacqua, after 5 mins at roundabout turn right over river and first left.
Good shopping centre at Fontvieille in Monaco, including large Carrefour supermarket. Books, cds, cameras tvs also at FNAC, at the Metropole shopping centre to the left of the Casino Gardens, Monaco.

MUSEUMS

Not much in the way of Culture.
Roman museum worth a visit (baths, amphitheatre) but everything in Italian only - open Sats and Suns 3 - 6 (times very liable to change). Come out of the station and walk along the main (busy) road East for about 10 mins.
The Civic Museum CIVICO MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO "GIROLAMO ROSSI" has a rather uninspiring collection of Roman bits and pieces with the odd bone thrown in and if it weren't for the spectacular views from its home in the former convent (1517 - 1831) then fort (1815-1883) on the clifftops might not be worth the hike. Walk through the old town to reach it - out through the upper gate, through the car park and over the main road. Alternatively, follow the trail to the Calandre Beach till it joins a path bearing off and up to the right - 1 minute up here. There may be an art exhibition in the rooms below.

LISTINGS

www.ventimiglia.it - the town council's site (only in Italian).
Banks: Opening hours vary but typically 8.30 to 13.30, 14.30 - 15.40. Closed Sat.
Post Office: Main square open 8.30 - 12.30, 14.00 - 17.30. Closed Sun. Stamps can be bought in tobacconists (look for the black T sign outside).
Angloinfo - Good source of community information for the Riviera
Tova Snyder - local artist

AROUND VENTIMIGLIA
Giardini Hanbury (Hanbury Gardens) - From his yacht in the 19th century Sir William Hanbury took a fancy to this peninsular and built a house and exotic gardens. The latter now open. Summer outdoor classical concerts.
Balzi Rossi - Decent museum of archeology, with disappointing caves. Good swimming nearby.
Dolceacqua - 20 mins drive from Ventimiglia up the Nervia Valley. Delightful medieval town, well worth a visit. Wine speciality is the Rossese. Little wine and oil shop on corner of main square - knock and a window may open above and owner's head appear. Thoough they produce it and sell it asking for and buying their rosé will be greeted with sneers - it's more a French thing. Summer events include opera in the main square.
Apricale - More Dolceacqua on the side of a mountain. How St. Paul de Vence probably appeared before it was discovered.Windy road to get there - 15 mins from Dolceacqua.
Seborga - Former knights templar hangout with its own Prince (albeit elected in 1963). Have another look for the Grail. If eating with Prime Ministers is more your thing, he runs a restaurant - in between affairs of state - in the main car-park on the right just before going in to the old town - good food and view. If you ever lie awake wondering what became of the Eastern Roman Empire after Constantinople fell then find their embassy in exile here. 25 mins from Ventimiglia.
Sanremo - More like the French Riviera but far too much traffic, interesting old town, glitzy shops and casino (one of only four in Italy). 10 mins train.
Across the French border:
Menton
Perfectly-kept, very pretty holiday town. Very Italian - lots of Milanese own houses here. Not the most dynamic of places, though it does pick up in the Summer - good bet for a family holiday. Surprisingly good deals can be had on hotels, particularly June and September. Alternatively rent out one of those (probably Italian) holiday appartments. Very, very busy during high season. Old town is a delight - if renting accommodation up here, check how far up on the hill you'll have to lug your bucket and spade. No first-rate restaurants (if you do find one please let us know!). Go over the border to Italy for decent food.

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MONACO
Monaco has lost much of its Italianate charm after the building frenzy instigated by the late Prince Rainier. Roads, bridges and tunnels abound, traffic is heavy, large annonymous blocks are continuing to replace the villas and although only 2.2 miles across, it's hilly and not much fun traipsing about with the hordes, especially in the summer heat. However, the glamour and glitz, the history, Princess Grace, its status of Principality, the toy-town cuteness and attention to detail, the air of exclusivity and dazzling wealth - and of course your photo in front of the casino mean that you're going to come here. And there are plenty of things to enjoy.

ARRIVAL
Traffic is always heavy, particularly when there's a major event, such as the Grand Prix (in May) or during one of the rather too frequent train strikes. It's also easy to get lost or to find yourself negotiating a winding steep street that is wide enough - just - for a small car and is surely one-way traffic only, but isn't. Parking in underground car parks on the other hand (also known as abandoning the car in panic) is however surprisingly plentiful and not especially expensive. From Nice the easiest route is the motorway towards Italy and Genoa (Genes) but far more scenic, if you have the time, is one of the coastal roads (corniches). The same applies from Italy - the alternative to the motorway is via Ventimiglia and Menton. Trains are frequent along the coast - from Nice take the train towards Ventimiglia (Vintimille). Taxis are expensive and rare. Walk (+ use the numerous outdoor public lifts) or use the buses ( www.cam.mc ) to bop about when the knees start to give way. Preparations for the Grand Prix begin well before the race with fencing and grandstands making getting about bothersome.
Monaco Buses:
1 - Monaco Ville, Monte-Carlo, Saint Roman and back
2 - Monaco Ville, Monte-Carlo, Exotic Garden and back
3 - Railway station, Monte-Carlo, Larvotto beaches and back
4 - Railway station, Fontvieille, Hospital and back
6 - Larvotto beaches, Fontvieille and back

Monaco is the name of the country which is divided into different areas. (Beware that Monaco in Italian also means Munich in Germany, which could be a disappointing mistake).
Monaco Ville:
Up on the rock, with the palace. Bit of a hike to get up here, bus to the top might be the wise option for the high-heelers. The palace is up here, guided tours possible, watch the changing of the guard. The old town has been perfectly sanitised and all signs of life replaced with Ferrari caps, Monaco mugs and bottled water for 6 Euros. The views, however are well worth the trip up. Walk through the old town to the southern tip and the gardens below, paying your dues at the tombs of Prince Ranier and Grace Kelly in the Cathedral on the way. Also up here is the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium .
La Condamine:
Around the old main port.
Fontvieille:
Reclaimed area to West of Monaco Ville rock. New marina, stadium, shopping, business centre. The Prince also houses his stamp and coin collection in a museum here, or if that is a little too sensational, wander round the marina with the oversize yachts. There's also a museum of vintage cars, while the zoo is small, depressing and controversial.
Montecarlo: Casino area.
You'll probably want to head up to the casino and get your photo in the gardens first. If arriving by train go up the escalators you can see at the end of the platform (there are three exits to the station, worth remembering for later) and pick up a map from the tourist info, and a train timetable, if you haven't already got one. Ask about buses too - there are lots of hills here. Take the lift up. Coming out of the station, cross the road Boulevard Princesse), turn left and take the first right (Boulevard de Suisse) after the bus stop. Turn left at the first junction (Avenue de la Costa) and you'll see the Casino Gardens further along opposite the shopping mall. Don't forget to wander about the terraces behind the casino for fine views.

MONACO HOTELS
Unless you're planning a surprise second honeymoon (or surprise first) Monaco probably doesn't perhaps make the best base for an extended trip to the South of France, you may well find a night or two suffice.

MONACO RESTAURANTS
Not all that glitters is edible and it's very easy to pay too much and eat poorly. But if your attitude is how often am I in Monaco and why not? - head for the glitziest (Salle Empire in the casino square for example) and worry about the bills later, though don't blame us. For more down-to-earth eating:
La Saliere (Fontvieille) restaurant (10, quai des Sanbarbani 98000 Fontvielle, Monaco Tél. +377 92 05 25 82). Good Italian food, friendly, good atmosphere, very reasonable prices. Italian run.
Huit Et Demie (La Condamine) 4, rue Langlé 98000 MONACO (MONACO) Tél : 003 77 93 50 97. Nice atmosphere, candles, decent prices. In Condamine area.
Stars n Bars (La Condamine) eat outside on the port or inside in large pub-like atmosphere. Good Mexican, burgers, veggie-burgers and selection of draught beers. Entertainment nights, pool, creche, very international (as you might expect).
Il Terrazzino - Italian near the casino.
Flashman's is an English pub and McCarthy's Irish - both in Montecarlo, near the Casino. The Ship and Castle is English-run in the marina in Fontvieille. The Priory Pub is English-run, very friendly with Sky Sports and food - in Beausoleil, 5 mins walk from the Casino.

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Beaulieu More stunning, beautiful scenery etc, which naturally you pay for. St Jean-Cap-Ferrat further along wears an even more exclusive hat.
Villefranche - Closer to Nice, another slightly bigger Gem.
Nice
All above are easy day trips by train from Ventimiglia. Menton 10mins. Nice 30 mins.
With a car add (at least): Eze and drive one of the 3 Corniches (the upper, middle and lower coast roads).

We'd be happy to help with free advice where we can if you're planning to visit the area.

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View from Ventimiglia towards Monaco